All stories by Mike Sula on BroadwayStars

Wednesday, October 12, 2022

Demand your deli from Schneider Provisions at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Jake Schneider’s path in life was derailed by Shabbat. In college, he majored in economics and planned to be a businessman, but after he started cooking Friday Sabbath dinner for […] The…

SOURCE: at 05:55PM
Wednesday, October 5, 2022

It’s the Night of the Copi with Chả Cá Nuggs at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Everyone knows that the popularity of the McDonald’s McNugget led to the eradication of the passenger pigeon, the Bering cackling goose, and the Spix’s macaw. That’s ancient history, m…

SOURCE: at 01:29PM
Thursday, September 29, 2022

It’s a night of fresh pastabilities with Gemma Foods at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Nobody makes eating fresh pasta at home easier than Tony Quartaro. Since I wrote about him last summer, the former Formento’s chef installed his roving fresh pasta delivery service Gemma […

SOURCE: at 01:58PM

Chả Cá Nuggs takes a nose-to-tail fin approach to eating the invasive copi by Mike Sula

The invasive fish formerly known as Asian carp was renamed “copi” earlier this summer by the Department of Natural Resources. Short for “copious,” the state hopes that a vaguely Medi…

SOURCE: at 01:30PM
Thursday, September 22, 2022

It’s chicken and waffle night at Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

The chickens roam freely over the pastures at Avrom Farm in Ripon, Wisconsin. But you might have spotted them in the wild this season at the Green City or Wicker […] The post It’s chicke…

SOURCE: at 01:49PM
Thursday, September 15, 2022

Food books are falling this month by Mike Sula

Four titles dropping over the next four weeks—by a quartet of heavy hitters—offer plenty of projects for the cold weather kitchen-bound. The post Food books are falling this month appear…

SOURCE: at 03:26PM

Umamicue and Friends smoke out the neighborhood at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

This time it’s for real: the sweet narcotic haze of smoked meat will haunt the streets and alleys of Irving Park. That’s when Odesza, Charles Wong’s candy apple-red, 22-foot, 500-gallo…

SOURCE: at 03:22PM
Wednesday, September 7, 2022

The Melanin Martha gets rational at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Since we left her last June, Jordan Wimby has taken a rational approach to pop-ups. “The amount of food enslaved people were given by owners was referred to as rations,” […] The post T…

SOURCE: at 02:59PM
Thursday, September 1, 2022

Pastry chef Ollyvia Putri’s 20-layer cakes are legit by Mike Sula

Ollyvia Putri insists on only canned Wijsman sweetcream salted butter for her bacon cake. “I cannot change that,” she says of the imported Dutch butter. “My grandma would kill me.” […

SOURCE: at 12:00PM
Wednesday, August 24, 2022

Funeral Potatoes get light in the loafers at the Next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Oranges were the only fruit aboard the Revenge. Even if Captain Stede Bonnet couldn’t taste them in the 40-orange cake he ordered—and even if the crew got scurvy—at least he […] The …

SOURCE: at 04:26PM
Tuesday, August 16, 2022

Vargo Brother Ferments embraces Fast Food Nation at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Taylor Hanna and Sebastian Vargo are masters of the fine art of low and slow fermentation. And they’re strict disciples of the Paul Masson Primary Principle: “We will sell no wine before…

SOURCE: at 10:00AM
Thursday, August 11, 2022

Be good to yourself with the return of Tasting India to the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Jasmine Sheth has had a hell of a year. Last March the impresario of the always fascinating Tasting India meal delivery pop-up took a break from her regular hyper-regional menu drops to go s…

SOURCE: at 06:53PM
Thursday, August 4, 2022

Bernardo Medina’s Sofrito Manifesto slaps like a flip-flop by Mike Sula

Bernardo Medina’s mother chased him into art with a foam rubber flip-flop. “Latina mothers call it a chancleta,” says Medina, a San Juan, Puerto Rico-based pop artist and publicist. …

SOURCE: at 01:10PM
Wednesday, August 3, 2022

Party like it’s Indonesian Independence Day with Waroeng and Friends at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

I’m not promising anything, but there might be a shrimp chip-eating contest at the Kedzie Inn this Monday. That’s what frequently happens on Tujuhbelasan, aka Indonesian Independence Day…

SOURCE: at 11:45AM
Tuesday, July 26, 2022

Like a blazing fried chicken, Thommy’s Toddy Shop rises from the ashes at the Next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

The Colonel came out of retirement to make KFC at the Kedzie Inn. OK, Tom Padanilam does not have an honorific title from the Indian state of Kerala. Someday, probably, but for now he’s ba…

SOURCE: at 05:30PM
Friday, July 22, 2022

SuperHai’s Asian stoner food saves the day at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

“Asian stoner food” were the words the ingenious chef Mickey Neely used to describe the food of SuperHai. That would be the mild-mannered couple who disguise their secret identities as, …

SOURCE: at 11:00AM
Wednesday, July 20, 2022

Something magic’s growing at Back of the Yards Algae Sciences by Mike Sula

Vivid green fluid silently courses down a vertical stack of cascading glass tubes on the third floor of the Plant, the sustainability-oriented Back of the Yards small business incubator wher…

SOURCE: at 01:30PM
Wednesday, July 13, 2022

Ramen Lord returns to the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Chui does exactly what you tell it to do. That’s the name of Mike “Ramen Lord” Satinover’s gleaming, new, half-ton Yamato Richmen Type One ramen noodle machine, currently in residen…

SOURCE: at 01:00PM
Thursday, July 7, 2022

Dawn Lewis wants you to “try meh hand” at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Most days the freshest, flakiest, most diaphanous Trinidadian roti in the city must be consumed al trunko on the 2500 block of South Wabash with your blinkers on (it’s the only spot for ro…

SOURCE: at 03:06PM
Monday, June 27, 2022

The House of Wah Sun abides, in Irving Park by Mike Sula

Last Saturday night at the House of Wah Sun in North Center, Mark Chiang lingered at the table of a few of the night’s last customers. His wife, Young Ja Kim, had already wheeled over the …

SOURCE: at 10:55AM
Wednesday, June 22, 2022

Umamicue brings Texas barbecue—via Asia—to the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Her name is Odesza. Charles Wong’s bright red, 22-foot, 500-gallon mobile road pit comes from Texas, and so does the barbecue she smokes—at least in terms of method and material. But the…

SOURCE: at 12:13PM
Saturday, June 11, 2022

The Melanin Martha celebrates Juneteenth at Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

“I’m really trying to think of ways for us to take the trauma that’s linked to our food and uplift it in ways that makes us feel good and connected to who we are and our cultural ident…

SOURCE: at 11:01AM
Wednesday, June 8, 2022

It’s a Lebanese-Armenian family feast at the next Monday Night Foodball by Mike Sula

Lebanon and Armenia are separated by vast stretches of Syria and eastern Turkey, but when Mary Eder-McClure and Kat Stuehrk Talo compared notes about the heroic family meals they grew up on,…

SOURCE: at 11:38AM

The Melanin Martha wants Black food to triumph over its trauma by Mike Sula

Jordan Wimby was the only Black kid on her Beverly block, and she ate like everyone else: Lunchables, Tyson chicken nuggets, TV dinners, and frozen potpies. “Growing up I was surrounded by…

SOURCE: at 07:00AM
Wednesday, June 1, 2022

Kedai Tapao returns to kick off a summer of Monday Night Foodballs by Mike Sula

Annnnd we’re back . . . Last January when the couple behind Malaysian pop-up Kedai Tapao took an extended winter break to visit the folks back in Kuala Lumpur, Jennifer Pou-Alesi spent her…

SOURCE: at 10:58AM
Wednesday, May 25, 2022

Hugh Amano develops Bon Vivant at Sterling Bay by Mike Sula

Nobody gets rich writing cookbooks, but I’ve always assumed that Hugh Amano wrote his way off the dole. Amano is best known as the opening sous chef at Fat Rice who, after leaving the rest…

SOURCE: at 07:00AM
Wednesday, May 11, 2022

Dawn Lewis of D’s Roti & Trini Cuisine has a sweet hand by Mike Sula

​Nobody just wakes up and says, “I’m gonna make roti today.” Not for the first time, anyway, and not without preparation. So says Dawn Lewis, who over the last four years earned the …

SOURCE: at 10:35AM
Tuesday, July 21, 2020

Cookies keep you healthy, soup makes you sane by Mike Sula

Two books about cooking and community from Belt Publishing I wonder if one day we'll be able to correlate a second surge in Chicago COVID-19 cases to the fact t…

SOURCE: at 11:40AM
Thursday, May 30, 2019

A brief history of ramen by Mike Sula

An excerpt from Hugh Amano and Sarah Becan’s forthcoming comic cookbook Let’s Make Ramen! There's a lot to be said for the pleasures of cheap instant ramen.…

SOURCE: at 07:00AM

All that Chat

Nov 27, 2022: KPOP - Circle In The Square